The first time I saw a photo of Cinque Terre — those five villages stacked into cliffs above the water like they'd been dropped there by accident — I figured it had to be exaggerated. It isn't. What the photos don't tell you is how you're supposed to actually see all five of them, and that's the question that trips people up the most when planning this part of Italy. Do you book a guided Cinque Terre hike and let someone else handle the logistics, or go self-guided and figure